I went to Mozambique today: SHTAPPEN'S

The name of this bar we drove past today in Mozambique would make a good summary for the day.

Actually, we used a much stronger word.

We went on a day trip today to Mozambique. The whole day started off on bad footing when our guide showed up a half hour late in a nice big bus and promptly told us we had to switch to a tiny van. but first we went and gassed up the big bus (one supposes for some other, luckier tourists) and then drive to some guy's house to make the switch. Basically, an hour of mucking around before we hit the road.

The then "two hour drive" turned out to more like three and very chaotic hour-long border crossing. I don't want to kvetch too much, but the day trip was not great. Mozambique is a total hole -- especially on a Sunday in winter. We went to a boring deserted train station ("one of the main tourist attractions in Maputo") and drove around the dodgy downtown area. It's no wonder that the town is a craphole -- the Portuguese got kicked out in 1975 and hardly anything's been built or repaired since then. It reminded me a lot of the films I've seen of Cuba -- lots of patch work and decay.

What else did we experience? Getting shaken down by some AK-47-carrying police (one of us took a picture of them from a distance, then they wanted a bribe.) Missing the market which apparently closes early on Sunday (remember how we left an hour and half late?) A crazy and semi-scary reentry into South Africa at night at the Mozambique border. Spending about ten hours of driving in a cramped bus.

Ok, now I've vented...here's the good part:

• I have a Mozambique stamp in my passport
• Ate some decent seafood
• Walked out to the edge of the Indian Ocean (I dipped my toe in!)
• Played with some kids on the beach who wanted to show us their kool karate moves
• Took some interesting photos
  
• We got back in one piece and Mary organized a great dinner for us

Also, I'll say that it refreshed my memory about how awesome it is to be from New York, where everything is well organized and safe. I might not have said such a thing a couple weeks ago. And the day trip also reminded me how great South Africa is -- and how well organized and safe it is. I might not have said that a week ago either.

We encountered more hostility today (in the form of people giving us the finger, interrogating us, intimidating us, begging aggressively etc) than we have in the whole time we've been here in Africa. It's just a different world in Mozambique. As a touristic day-trip, it really stunk (and I'm fairly certain our guide fleeced us a bit too). But at least I've had the aperture of my personal perspective broadened once again.